Dear Reader,
You know how you have a dream, something you really want to happen, and then you experience it and it really feels like a dream?
That was last Friday.
But first, to explain why, let me take you back to those awful years during the pandemic. When we all did whatever we could to stay sane, while not catching a deadly virus.
Doug survived those years by watching YouTube videos of big wave surfing.
There was something about seeing people face those waves that gave him peace. I enjoyed it too, but it was special for him.
He became a big fan of Kai Lenny, a Hawaiian big wave surfer who can hold his breath for five minutes!
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